Travelling by bus from Chiavenna we arrive in the historical town of Thusis in the canton of Grisons. Its appearance has been particularly influenced by a centuries-old role as a transit town. The historic centre of Thusis has for this very reason assumed an almost urban character with its tightly-knit housing, and wide streets for the passage of horse-drawn carriages, and pack-carrying animals, alongside extensive cellars and huge warehouses. Setting out from Thusis, before very long we arrive at one of the most picturesque yet dramatic of environs: the Via Mala gorges, this stretch ends at the delightful village of Andeer, hosting its splendidly decorated houses and little cobbled streets. An opportunity to enjoy a complimentary spa.

From the capital of the Romansch language, a somewhat particular Neo-Latin native tongue, we head off for the magnificent Roffla Waterfalls. From there we journey through Spruce woodlands
which lead us to Sufers, a village dating back to the Carolingian epoch, situated in a basin in the valley floor. Following the ancient dirt track we finally reach Splügen, a town which continued to develop over the centuries thanks to commerce in transit through the Pass which separates Switzerland and Italy. Alpine pastures with breathtaking panorama of the surrounding peaks, cobbled/paved mule-tracks that feature along this high-altitude and expansive section. As we move up from the village on the northern slope of the Pass prior to the descent on the Italian side to the village of Montespluga, where you can breathe in the atmosphere of times past.

A section which is practically all downhill in nature, following the route of the Liro torrent and introducing the hiker to the joys of Val San Giacomo: we’re wandering along pathways between well-tended dry-stone wall and meadow, through chestnut groves and taking in places of considerable historical and religious interest. We approach Chiavenna along a path with magnificent panorama over the length of Valchiavenna; from the age-old terraces hosting traditional vineyards you catch your first glimpse of a very special Alpine community, with its immaculately preserved historic centre. On arrival in Chiavenna you have the opportunity to visit the splendid renaissance mansion – Palazzo Vertemate Franchi – with is elaborately frescoed walls and ceilings depicting huge scenarios from Greek mythology or maybe the Acquafraggia waterfalls in Borgonuovo.