On the Path to the Roof of The World.
Lessons learned from my first 8000 meter peak.
Ever since I became enamoured with the mountains, one of my aspirations was a burning desire to climb a ‘big mountain’, of the type that I had read about endlessly, and seen in numerous documentaries.
When I was in my 20s, back in the 1990’s, such a trip would have only been possible if I was an aspiring talented Alpinist and ‘invited’ onto a sponsored expedition.
Venturing into my 30s my role became to raise another human, my son Emilie, which I did by embracing and sharing my sprit of adventure and living in the UK, New Zealand, and Nepal, before settling in the Haute Savoie, France.
My early 40s afforded time to breathe, think, reflect and have a conversation with myself about how the next chapter of my life should take shape. Emile was going to start secondary school and becoming more independent every day, our chalet was renovated and my business was COVID stable…it was finally time to revisit the big mountain passion that still burned deep within me.
With a strong baseline of mountaineering experience, and having worked as a trekking guide for most of my working life, including having two ascents of Mont Blanc and a number of guided 4000m peaks (Matterhorn, Dent du Geant, Monte Viso) to my name, it felt like all of these experiences were building towards the mountain experience that I had been waiting almost 25 years to undertake.
But which peak would I tackle on my ultimate mountain adventure?
After some considerable thought, I sought out a commercial expedition, offering an ascent of Manaslu (8163m) in Western Nepal during September / October 2021, with the renowned ‘8K Expeditions’ and the talented Lakpa Sherpa. Having seen Lakpa operate for a number of years on Everest, K2, Lhotse, Manaslu and multiple other mountains I knew I would be in the best possible hands.
Why Manaslu?
Being the 8th highest mountain in the world and an ‘eight-thousander’ (where peaks above 8000 m being a noted milestone in the mountaineering world) I knew that Manaslu would be no small challenge, but for me it was more about the personal challenge in my fourth decade, of finally embarking on an adventure 20 years in the planning. Manaslu is a good choice for your first 8000m peak due to the technical terrain and accessibility in the Eastern Annapurna’s
It’s All in the Planning….Equipment.
Having led and participated in many, many expeditions, I knew that preparation and the right equipment would be essential for such an undertaking, especially an environment where the right equipment and knowing how to use it, has meant the difference between life and death for so many in the past.
Boots, down suits, gloves, and other essential equipment were all available for hire in Kathmandu, however my tiny feet (size 37.5, US 7, UK 5) with a high arch, would prove a challenge when hiring, so rather than leave things to chance I sought out and purchased my own, beginning with testing and selecting ‘Boreal’ Expedition 8k boots.
Not wanting to risk hiring equipment that wasn’t right for me, ‘Rab’ Down Trousers and ‘Black Diamond’ alpine gloves were selected to go with my existing, tried and tested equipment.
I chose ‘Seal Skin’ branded gloves for my base layer gloves, while ‘Patagonia’ and ‘Decathlon’ branded underwear rounded out my clothing items.
With the kit list growing, and with the knowledge that much of this can be hired in Kathmandu (which is important to keep in mind as the costs can escalate, so for the more cost aware traveller, it is always worth investing in personal equipment such as properly fitted and tested clothing Vs generalist ‘gear’ such as crampons or ice axes), I already had some essential kit to choose from, as I added crampons, goggles and glacier sunglasses, and my trusted ‘Black Diamond couloir’ climbing harness. I also made a point to equip my existing head torch with lithium batteries, which were essential for operating in low temperatures.
I knew I needed to purchase a sleeping bag, which proved one of the more challenging decisions on my kit list, as bulkier and heavier bags also tend to be the warmest, so there always tends to be a decision between warmth, bulk and weight when selecting a new bag.
Knowing that I would be climbing amid some of the world’s most inhospitable terrain, this was not a time to compromise, so a ‘Mountain Equipment’ down bag was chosen, while Korean brand ‘Black Yak’ offered a fantastic, and cost effective sleeping mat solution for only $30, which I purchased locally in Kathmandu.
Learning from the hard learned experiences of others is essential in the mountaineering world, and on a previous expedition I observed that Spanish Alpinist Jorge Egocheaga always carried a ‘Jet-Boil’ camping cooker in his rucksack ( I did the same ), and had a ‘expedition blue drum’ ( many Sherpa’s use this as a kit store) filled with snack bars and dehydrated food. The point being he could totally function independently on the mountain.
Other key items that people gave me were to carry adhesive foot / hand warmers, advice greatly received as the foot warmers especially saved my toes from frostbite. They are very easy to use and by sticking them to the outside of your socks the warmth they provide can last for a digit saving 5 to 6 hours.
Preparation.
8K Expeditions gave us the opportunity to participate in a training session prior to the expedition beginning in earnest, where some of the Sherpa guides set up a couple of fixed lines and a traverse on the section of glacier, close to our camp.
Embracing the opportunity proved invaluable, as it afforded the opportunity to fine tune techniques before going higher on the mountain, especially as between Camps 1 & 2 we had to navigate an icefall and numerous crevasses which required a couple of short ladders to cross.
The crevasse ladders proved precarious and occasionally hair raising experiences, especially with smaller feet like mine, where I needed to balance on each rung, as opposed to my crampons reaching between the rungs and forming two points of contact.
Calling Home.
Mountain Satellite Phones proved an essential link to home, and with no signal at BC, and WIFI proving slow and pricey, I used my Thuraya Satellite Phone £50 to send text messages, at the cost of approx 35p, and I decided to connect regularly with my son, friends and family. Jose, who I shared a tent with, was using a ‘Garmin In-Reach’ GPS/ satellite communicator, which is something I would like to look into for future trips as messaging definitely felt like the most effective means of communication, where options were limited.
Functioning in the mountains – the essentials, and facts of life.
When working at the extremes, even the most basic functions take on a whole new perspective, especially for any females pondering such an undertaking. But, function we must – so in the spirit of sharing my experiences so that readers don’t have to go through the same lessons, I make no apologies for some of the subject matter which follows….
Toileting and tending the female menstrual cycle need some consideration when operating in any extreme environment, none more so than in alpine and ‘above the snowline’ mountainous environments.
At basecamp dedicated toilet tents exist with separate ‘No 1’ and ‘No 2’ tents, especially due to waste removal responsibilities. On higher camps an area close to the tents is dug out with a small snow wall a foot high, and depending on the exact location and technical terrain, you don’t want to travel too far from your tent which means that discretion isn’t always possibly, but then everyone is in the same boat and respectful of the limited privacy that is available.
Ultimately Peeing in your tent or doorway whilst sharing with other expedition members, both male or female, is totally ok and often necessary.
As you climb higher extreme cold becomes a serious factor, in particular exposing bare flesh to the elements. Toileting in your tent is the norm. Men use bottles, while women use special ‘Shewee’ bottles, which you may find a little awkward to use effectively and if you pee with a reasonable flow rate then chances are you may fill the bottle and create a spillage. If this spillage a consideration, a cheap ‘funnel’ can be a life saver.
Hydration and avoiding urinary infections is essential in extreme environments, such as the mountains….lets face it, no-one wants cystitis at 7000m!
Feminine practicalities demanded that I opted for a two piece down suit for this trip, which bring us to managing periods and dealing with the menstrual flow.
We all know that menstrual fatigue, (for me on the day prior to my period is exhausting) can take its toll, and dealing with a heavy flow can prove complicated at altitude (with the altitude itself having unique effects on each individual’s physiology, including periods). A solution can be found in a coil (for example the Mirena or the newer Kyleena) which can reduce your period to barely anything.
Extreme Relationships – maintaining morale and friendships amid the mountains.
The time you spend with your climbing Sherpa can be regarded as ‘intense’ and it’s important that you work well together and have clear means of communication to ensure safety.
My own climbing Sherpa, Dawa was exceptional, being very calm, a good decision maker and highly experienced, and is on track to complete the 14 x 8000m peaks with just the mighty K2 to go. Many climbers return to work with the same Sherpa on future expeditions, proving that mutual trust and respect are key to success, and survival amongst the mountains.
Spirituality – This is very important for me and there were a series of things that I needed to undertake in order to feel prepared for the expedition. For a long time now I have studied astrology, so I requested a reading from respected NZ Astrologer, Graham Ibell.
Equally, visiting a Lhama once in Kathmandu and showing respect at the various monasteries on route all add a feeling of protection and calmness.
Rotations and Assault on the Summit.
I genuinely did not know if I could climb this mountain, so I concluded to break the expedition into stages, and consider each stage, one at a time.
For our ascent, we would be climbing the mountain as one group, pooling resources and support in a group effort. In theory this worked well, but in practice we found that, with some members being acclimatised prior to departure and others using various altitude drugs to assist acclimatisation, it emerged that we did not all climb at the same speed.
Climbing in this environment involves working in rotations to support acclimatisation and route preparation by ascending and descending between camps so that our bodies adapted to each new increase in altitude and, depending on how we felt, could either remain or descend, before seeking to move to the next, higher camp.
Listening to, and understanding the effects of operating at altitude was essential, as many ill fated climbers have attempted to ‘tough it out’, rather than to listen to their bodies and take the sensible, and often tough, decision to descend and allow the body to adjust at a slower pace in the short term, was far more sustainable in the long term.
After 4 or 5 days of rest at Base Camp, our 3rd rotation was our summit attempt.
My personal fear was that I was not acclimatised properly and felt ill prepared for the summit, however as a group we were all going together so it was very much ‘now or never’!
Interestingly, at Camps 1-3 I felt great and slept really well, not everyone in the group had the same experience, but I tried to concentrate on my own efficiency and managing myself on the mountain.
Some of our group started climbing while using oxygen from Camp 3, however I felt good, so decided to start without, feeling as strong as I had since we started the trip.
Pushing towards 7400m we were doing great. Then, as we were half way up the final icewall, I glanced up to study the terrain and was abruptly smacked in the face by a chunk of snow falling down the mountain.
Spitting blood and slightly shaken, Dawa and I decided that now was the time to start the oxygen, which was especially challenging given the location and need to set up the equipment. Dawa’s experience shone through as he took control and got the system working.
Pausing repeatedly so that I could wash out my mouth, which had some minor internal bleeding from the snowfall, we made steady progress to reach Camp 4, from where the plan was to start our Summit push at midnight.
Hydrating, eating, organising equipment, and getting some sleep were essential, and for the first time I slept on Oxygen which was awkward, and I seemed to have developed an unpleasant cough, possibly hampered by the earlier incident.
Ever attentive, Dawa, upon hearing my spluttering and coughing, came over and adjusted the flow rate on the oxygen cylinder and decided to sleep in our tent before our departure a few hours later. Waking at around 11pm, we began getting ready and taking on board essential liquid to hydrate for the ascent ahead. Everything is a lot slower at altitude, and again the ‘buddy buddy’ system came into its own as I needed help with normally simple tasks, such as tightening crampons and adjusting kit.
Leaving Camp 4 at midnight, a steady climb followed, including some noticeably tricky sections, before summiting at 07:13.
Standing amid freezing winds, finally being on the peak for 15 minutes was a simply amazing!! Over whelming in so many ways.
All too soon we were descending again, where for the first time I felt my oxygen quite claustraphobic, which led me to keep removing the mask. This constant ‘off / on’ of oxygen without a doubt confused my body, and arriving at Camp 4 I felt quite exhausted and dehydrated.
Exhausted, I have no idea how long we spent at camp 4, but a large number of the group were planning on descending to Base Camp in the same day, which for me was too demanding, so I opted to descend to camp 3 with Dawa where we could refuel and sleep before allowing for a slightly slower return to BC, just in time for the summit party amid new friends and climbing colleagues who all stared in this life changing journey.
Collectively we were taken to the next level, mentally, physically and spiritually, and were each left humbled by the experience, but all with a burning passion to see where this challenge could take us.
Tanya Perret, April 2022
On the Path to the Roof of The World.
Lessons learned from my first 8000 meter peak.
Ever since I became enamoured with the mountains, one of my aspirations was a burning desire to climb a ‘big mountain’, of the type that I had read about endlessly, and seen in numerous documentaries.
When I was in my 20s, back in the 1990’s, such a trip would have only been possible if I was an aspiring talented Alpinist and ‘invited’ onto a sponsored expedition.
Venturing into my 30s my role became to raise another human, my son Emilie, which I did by embracing and sharing my sprit of adventure and living in the UK, New Zealand, and Nepal, before settling in the Haute Savoie, France.
My early 40s afforded time to breathe, think, reflect and have a conversation with myself about how the next chapter of my life should take shape. Emile was going to start secondary school and becoming more independent every day, our chalet was renovated and my business was COVID stable…it was finally time to revisit the big mountain passion that still burned deep within me.
With a strong baseline of mountaineering experience, and having worked as a trekking guide for most of my working life, including having two ascents of Mont Blanc and a number of guided 4000m peaks (Matterhorn, Dent du Geant, Monte Viso) to my name, it felt like all of these experiences were building towards the mountain experience that I had been waiting almost 25 years to undertake.
But which peak would I tackle on my ultimate mountain adventure?
After some considerable thought, I sought out a commercial expedition, offering an ascent of Manaslu (8163m) in Western Nepal during September / October 2021, with the renowned ‘8K Expeditions’ and the talented Lakpa Sherpa. Having seen Lakpa operate for a number of years on Everest, K2, Lhotse, Manaslu and multiple other mountains I knew I would be in the best possible hands.
Why Manaslu?
Being the 8th highest mountain in the world and an ‘eight-thousander’ (where peaks above 8000 m being a noted milestone in the mountaineering world) I knew that Manaslu would be no small challenge, but for me it was more about the personal challenge in my fourth decade, of finally embarking on an adventure 20 years in the planning. Manaslu is a good choice for your first 8000m peak due to the technical terrain and accessibility in the Eastern Annapurna’s
It’s All in the Planning….Equipment.
Having led and participated in many, many expeditions, I knew that preparation and the right equipment would be essential for such an undertaking, especially an environment where the right equipment and knowing how to use it, has meant the difference between life and death for so many in the past.
Boots, down suits, gloves, and other essential equipment were all available for hire in Kathmandu, however my tiny feet (size 37.5, US 7, UK 5) with a high arch, would prove a challenge when hiring, so rather than leave things to chance I sought out and purchased my own, beginning with testing and selecting ‘Boreal’ Expedition 8k boots.
Not wanting to risk hiring equipment that wasn’t right for me, ‘Rab’ Down Trousers and ‘Black Diamond’ alpine gloves were selected to go with my existing, tried and tested equipment.
I chose ‘Seal Skin’ branded gloves for my base layer gloves, while ‘Patagonia’ and ‘Decathlon’ branded underwear rounded out my clothing items.
With the kit list growing, and with the knowledge that much of this can be hired in Kathmandu (which is important to keep in mind as the costs can escalate, so for the more cost aware traveller, it is always worth investing in personal equipment such as properly fitted and tested clothing Vs generalist ‘gear’ such as crampons or ice axes), I already had some essential kit to choose from, as I added crampons, goggles and glacier sunglasses, and my trusted ‘Black Diamond couloir’ climbing harness. I also made a point to equip my existing head torch with lithium batteries, which were essential for operating in low temperatures.
I knew I needed to purchase a sleeping bag, which proved one of the more challenging decisions on my kit list, as bulkier and heavier bags also tend to be the warmest, so there always tends to be a decision between warmth, bulk and weight when selecting a new bag.
Knowing that I would be climbing amid some of the world’s most inhospitable terrain, this was not a time to compromise, so a ‘Mountain Equipment’ down bag was chosen, while Korean brand ‘Black Yak’ offered a fantastic, and cost effective sleeping mat solution for only $30, which I purchased locally in Kathmandu.
Learning from the hard learned experiences of others is essential in the mountaineering world, and on a previous expedition I observed that Spanish Alpinist Jorge Egocheaga always carried a ‘Jet-Boil’ camping cooker in his rucksack ( I did the same ), and had a ‘expedition blue drum’ ( many Sherpa’s use this as a kit store) filled with snack bars and dehydrated food. The point being he could totally function independently on the mountain.
Other key items that people gave me were to carry adhesive foot / hand warmers, advice greatly received as the foot warmers especially saved my toes from frostbite. They are very easy to use and by sticking them to the outside of your socks the warmth they provide can last for a digit saving 5 to 6 hours.
Preparation.
8K Expeditions gave us the opportunity to participate in a training session prior to the expedition beginning in earnest, where some of the Sherpa guides set up a couple of fixed lines and a traverse on the section of glacier, close to our camp.
Embracing the opportunity proved invaluable, as it afforded the opportunity to fine tune techniques before going higher on the mountain, especially as between Camps 1 & 2 we had to navigate an icefall and numerous crevasses which required a couple of short ladders to cross.
The crevasse ladders proved precarious and occasionally hair raising experiences, especially with smaller feet like mine, where I needed to balance on each rung, as opposed to my crampons reaching between the rungs and forming two points of contact.
Calling Home.
Mountain Satellite Phones proved an essential link to home, and with no signal at BC, and WIFI proving slow and pricey, I used my Thuraya Satellite Phone £50 to send text messages, at the cost of approx 35p, and I decided to connect regularly with my son, friends and family. Jose, who I shared a tent with, was using a ‘Garmin In-Reach’ GPS/ satellite communicator, which is something I would like to look into for future trips as messaging definitely felt like the most effective means of communication, where options were limited.
Functioning in the mountains – the essentials, and facts of life.
When working at the extremes, even the most basic functions take on a whole new perspective, especially for any females pondering such an undertaking. But, function we must – so in the spirit of sharing my experiences so that readers don’t have to go through the same lessons, I make no apologies for some of the subject matter which follows….
Toileting and tending the female menstrual cycle need some consideration when operating in any extreme environment, none more so than in alpine and ‘above the snowline’ mountainous environments.
At basecamp dedicated toilet tents exist with separate ‘No 1’ and ‘No 2’ tents, especially due to waste removal responsibilities. On higher camps an area close to the tents is dug out with a small snow wall a foot high, and depending on the exact location and technical terrain, you don’t want to travel too far from your tent which means that discretion isn’t always possibly, but then everyone is in the same boat and respectful of the limited privacy that is available.
Ultimately Peeing in your tent or doorway whilst sharing with other expedition members, both male or female, is totally ok and often necessary.
As you climb higher extreme cold becomes a serious factor, in particular exposing bare flesh to the elements. Toileting in your tent is the norm. Men use bottles, while women use special ‘Shewee’ bottles, which you may find a little awkward to use effectively and if you pee with a reasonable flow rate then chances are you may fill the bottle and create a spillage. If this spillage a consideration, a cheap ‘funnel’ can be a life saver.
Hydration and avoiding urinary infections is essential in extreme environments, such as the mountains….lets face it, no-one wants cystitis at 7000m!
Feminine practicalities demanded that I opted for a two piece down suit for this trip, which bring us to managing periods and dealing with the menstrual flow.
We all know that menstrual fatigue, (for me on the day prior to my period is exhausting) can take its toll, and dealing with a heavy flow can prove complicated at altitude (with the altitude itself having unique effects on each individual’s physiology, including periods). A solution can be found in a coil (for example the Mirena or the newer Kyleena) which can reduce your period to barely anything.
Extreme Relationships – maintaining morale and friendships amid the mountains.
The time you spend with your climbing Sherpa can be regarded as ‘intense’ and it’s important that you work well together and have clear means of communication to ensure safety.
My own climbing Sherpa, Dawa was exceptional, being very calm, a good decision maker and highly experienced, and is on track to complete the 14 x 8000m peaks with just the mighty K2 to go. Many climbers return to work with the same Sherpa on future expeditions, proving that mutual trust and respect are key to success, and survival amongst the mountains.
Spirituality – This is very important for me and there were a series of things that I needed to undertake in order to feel prepared for the expedition. For a long time now I have studied astrology, so I requested a reading from respected NZ Astrologer, Graham Ibell.
Equally, visiting a Lhama once in Kathmandu and showing respect at the various monasteries on route all add a feeling of protection and calmness.
Rotations and Assault on the Summit.
I genuinely did not know if I could climb this mountain, so I concluded to break the expedition into stages, and consider each stage, one at a time.
For our ascent, we would be climbing the mountain as one group, pooling resources and support in a group effort. In theory this worked well, but in practice we found that, with some members being acclimatised prior to departure and others using various altitude drugs to assist acclimatisation, it emerged that we did not all climb at the same speed.
Climbing in this environment involves working in rotations to support acclimatisation and route preparation by ascending and descending between camps so that our bodies adapted to each new increase in altitude and, depending on how we felt, could either remain or descend, before seeking to move to the next, higher camp.
Listening to, and understanding the effects of operating at altitude was essential, as many ill fated climbers have attempted to ‘tough it out’, rather than to listen to their bodies and take the sensible, and often tough, decision to descend and allow the body to adjust at a slower pace in the short term, was far more sustainable in the long term.
After 4 or 5 days of rest at Base Camp, our 3rd rotation was our summit attempt.
My personal fear was that I was not acclimatised properly and felt ill prepared for the summit, however as a group we were all going together so it was very much ‘now or never’!
Interestingly, at Camps 1-3 I felt great and slept really well, not everyone in the group had the same experience, but I tried to concentrate on my own efficiency and managing myself on the mountain.
Some of our group started climbing while using oxygen from Camp 3, however I felt good, so decided to start without, feeling as strong as I had since we started the trip.
Pushing towards 7400m we were doing great. Then, as we were half way up the final icewall, I glanced up to study the terrain and was abruptly smacked in the face by a chunk of snow falling down the mountain.
Spitting blood and slightly shaken, Dawa and I decided that now was the time to start the oxygen, which was especially challenging given the location and need to set up the equipment. Dawa’s experience shone through as he took control and got the system working.
Pausing repeatedly so that I could wash out my mouth, which had some minor internal bleeding from the snowfall, we made steady progress to reach Camp 4, from where the plan was to start our Summit push at midnight.
Hydrating, eating, organising equipment, and getting some sleep were essential, and for the first time I slept on Oxygen which was awkward, and I seemed to have developed an unpleasant cough, possibly hampered by the earlier incident.
Ever attentive, Dawa, upon hearing my spluttering and coughing, came over and adjusted the flow rate on the oxygen cylinder and decided to sleep in our tent before our departure a few hours later. Waking at around 11pm, we began getting ready and taking on board essential liquid to hydrate for the ascent ahead. Everything is a lot slower at altitude, and again the ‘buddy buddy’ system came into its own as I needed help with normally simple tasks, such as tightening crampons and adjusting kit.
Leaving Camp 4 at midnight, a steady climb followed, including some noticeably tricky sections, before summiting at 07:13.
Standing amid freezing winds, finally being on the peak for 15 minutes was a simply amazing!! Over whelming in so many ways.
All too soon we were descending again, where for the first time I felt my oxygen quite claustraphobic, which led me to keep removing the mask. This constant ‘off / on’ of oxygen without a doubt confused my body, and arriving at Camp 4 I felt quite exhausted and dehydrated.
Exhausted, I have no idea how long we spent at camp 4, but a large number of the group were planning on descending to Base Camp in the same day, which for me was too demanding, so I opted to descend to camp 3 with Dawa where we could refuel and sleep before allowing for a slightly slower return to BC, just in time for the summit party amid new friends and climbing colleagues who all stared in this life changing journey.
Collectively we were taken to the next level, mentally, physically and spiritually, and were each left humbled by the experience, but all with a burning passion to see where this challenge could take us.
Tanya Perret, April 2022
On the Path to the Roof of The World.
Lessons learned from my first 8000 meter peak.
Ever since I became enamoured with the mountains, one of my aspirations was a burning desire to climb a ‘big mountain’, of the type that I had read about endlessly, and seen in numerous documentaries.
When I was in my 20s, back in the 1990’s, such a trip would have only been possible if I was an aspiring talented Alpinist and ‘invited’ onto a sponsored expedition.
Venturing into my 30s my role became to raise another human, my son Emilie, which I did by embracing and sharing my sprit of adventure and living in the UK, New Zealand, and Nepal, before settling in the Haute Savoie, France.
My early 40s afforded time to breathe, think, reflect and have a conversation with myself about how the next chapter of my life should take shape. Emile was going to start secondary school and becoming more independent every day, our chalet was renovated and my business was COVID stable…it was finally time to revisit the big mountain passion that still burned deep within me.
With a strong baseline of mountaineering experience, and having worked as a trekking guide for most of my working life, including having two ascents of Mont Blanc and a number of guided 4000m peaks (Matterhorn, Dent du Geant, Monte Viso) to my name, it felt like all of these experiences were building towards the mountain experience that I had been waiting almost 25 years to undertake.
But which peak would I tackle on my ultimate mountain adventure?
After some considerable thought, I sought out a commercial expedition, offering an ascent of Manaslu (8163m) in Western Nepal during September / October 2021, with the renowned ‘8K Expeditions’ and the talented Lakpa Sherpa. Having seen Lakpa operate for a number of years on Everest, K2, Lhotse, Manaslu and multiple other mountains I knew I would be in the best possible hands.
Why Manaslu?
Being the 8th highest mountain in the world and an ‘eight-thousander’ (where peaks above 8000 m being a noted milestone in the mountaineering world) I knew that Manaslu would be no small challenge, but for me it was more about the personal challenge in my fourth decade, of finally embarking on an adventure 20 years in the planning. Manaslu is a good choice for your first 8000m peak due to the technical terrain and accessibility in the Eastern Annapurna’s
It’s All in the Planning….Equipment.
Having led and participated in many, many expeditions, I knew that preparation and the right equipment would be essential for such an undertaking, especially an environment where the right equipment and knowing how to use it, has meant the difference between life and death for so many in the past.
Boots, down suits, gloves, and other essential equipment were all available for hire in Kathmandu, however my tiny feet (size 37.5, US 7, UK 5) with a high arch, would prove a challenge when hiring, so rather than leave things to chance I sought out and purchased my own, beginning with testing and selecting ‘Boreal’ Expedition 8k boots.
Not wanting to risk hiring equipment that wasn’t right for me, ‘Rab’ Down Trousers and ‘Black Diamond’ alpine gloves were selected to go with my existing, tried and tested equipment.
I chose ‘Seal Skin’ branded gloves for my base layer gloves, while ‘Patagonia’ and ‘Decathlon’ branded underwear rounded out my clothing items.
With the kit list growing, and with the knowledge that much of this can be hired in Kathmandu (which is important to keep in mind as the costs can escalate, so for the more cost aware traveller, it is always worth investing in personal equipment such as properly fitted and tested clothing Vs generalist ‘gear’ such as crampons or ice axes), I already had some essential kit to choose from, as I added crampons, goggles and glacier sunglasses, and my trusted ‘Black Diamond couloir’ climbing harness. I also made a point to equip my existing head torch with lithium batteries, which were essential for operating in low temperatures.
I knew I needed to purchase a sleeping bag, which proved one of the more challenging decisions on my kit list, as bulkier and heavier bags also tend to be the warmest, so there always tends to be a decision between warmth, bulk and weight when selecting a new bag.
Knowing that I would be climbing amid some of the world’s most inhospitable terrain, this was not a time to compromise, so a ‘Mountain Equipment’ down bag was chosen, while Korean brand ‘Black Yak’ offered a fantastic, and cost effective sleeping mat solution for only $30, which I purchased locally in Kathmandu.
Learning from the hard learned experiences of others is essential in the mountaineering world, and on a previous expedition I observed that Spanish Alpinist Jorge Egocheaga always carried a ‘Jet-Boil’ camping cooker in his rucksack ( I did the same ), and had a ‘expedition blue drum’ ( many Sherpa’s use this as a kit store) filled with snack bars and dehydrated food. The point being he could totally function independently on the mountain.
Other key items that people gave me were to carry adhesive foot / hand warmers, advice greatly received as the foot warmers especially saved my toes from frostbite. They are very easy to use and by sticking them to the outside of your socks the warmth they provide can last for a digit saving 5 to 6 hours.
Preparation.
8K Expeditions gave us the opportunity to participate in a training session prior to the expedition beginning in earnest, where some of the Sherpa guides set up a couple of fixed lines and a traverse on the section of glacier, close to our camp.
Embracing the opportunity proved invaluable, as it afforded the opportunity to fine tune techniques before going higher on the mountain, especially as between Camps 1 & 2 we had to navigate an icefall and numerous crevasses which required a couple of short ladders to cross.
The crevasse ladders proved precarious and occasionally hair raising experiences, especially with smaller feet like mine, where I needed to balance on each rung, as opposed to my crampons reaching between the rungs and forming two points of contact.
Calling Home.
Mountain Satellite Phones proved an essential link to home, and with no signal at BC, and WIFI proving slow and pricey, I used my Thuraya Satellite Phone £50 to send text messages, at the cost of approx 35p, and I decided to connect regularly with my son, friends and family. Jose, who I shared a tent with, was using a ‘Garmin In-Reach’ GPS/ satellite communicator, which is something I would like to look into for future trips as messaging definitely felt like the most effective means of communication, where options were limited.
Functioning in the mountains – the essentials, and facts of life.
When working at the extremes, even the most basic functions take on a whole new perspective, especially for any females pondering such an undertaking. But, function we must – so in the spirit of sharing my experiences so that readers don’t have to go through the same lessons, I make no apologies for some of the subject matter which follows….
Toileting and tending the female menstrual cycle need some consideration when operating in any extreme environment, none more so than in alpine and ‘above the snowline’ mountainous environments.
At basecamp dedicated toilet tents exist with separate ‘No 1’ and ‘No 2’ tents, especially due to waste removal responsibilities. On higher camps an area close to the tents is dug out with a small snow wall a foot high, and depending on the exact location and technical terrain, you don’t want to travel too far from your tent which means that discretion isn’t always possibly, but then everyone is in the same boat and respectful of the limited privacy that is available.
Ultimately Peeing in your tent or doorway whilst sharing with other expedition members, both male or female, is totally ok and often necessary.
As you climb higher extreme cold becomes a serious factor, in particular exposing bare flesh to the elements. Toileting in your tent is the norm. Men use bottles, while women use special ‘Shewee’ bottles, which you may find a little awkward to use effectively and if you pee with a reasonable flow rate then chances are you may fill the bottle and create a spillage. If this spillage a consideration, a cheap ‘funnel’ can be a life saver.
Hydration and avoiding urinary infections is essential in extreme environments, such as the mountains….lets face it, no-one wants cystitis at 7000m!
Feminine practicalities demanded that I opted for a two piece down suit for this trip, which bring us to managing periods and dealing with the menstrual flow.
We all know that menstrual fatigue, (for me on the day prior to my period is exhausting) can take its toll, and dealing with a heavy flow can prove complicated at altitude (with the altitude itself having unique effects on each individual’s physiology, including periods). A solution can be found in a coil (for example the Mirena or the newer Kyleena) which can reduce your period to barely anything.
Extreme Relationships – maintaining morale and friendships amid the mountains.
The time you spend with your climbing Sherpa can be regarded as ‘intense’ and it’s important that you work well together and have clear means of communication to ensure safety.
My own climbing Sherpa, Dawa was exceptional, being very calm, a good decision maker and highly experienced, and is on track to complete the 14 x 8000m peaks with just the mighty K2 to go. Many climbers return to work with the same Sherpa on future expeditions, proving that mutual trust and respect are key to success, and survival amongst the mountains.
Spirituality – This is very important for me and there were a series of things that I needed to undertake in order to feel prepared for the expedition. For a long time now I have studied astrology, so I requested a reading from respected NZ Astrologer, Graham Ibell.
Equally, visiting a Lhama once in Kathmandu and showing respect at the various monasteries on route all add a feeling of protection and calmness.
Rotations and Assault on the Summit.
I genuinely did not know if I could climb this mountain, so I concluded to break the expedition into stages, and consider each stage, one at a time.
For our ascent, we would be climbing the mountain as one group, pooling resources and support in a group effort. In theory this worked well, but in practice we found that, with some members being acclimatised prior to departure and others using various altitude drugs to assist acclimatisation, it emerged that we did not all climb at the same speed.
Climbing in this environment involves working in rotations to support acclimatisation and route preparation by ascending and descending between camps so that our bodies adapted to each new increase in altitude and, depending on how we felt, could either remain or descend, before seeking to move to the next, higher camp.
Listening to, and understanding the effects of operating at altitude was essential, as many ill fated climbers have attempted to ‘tough it out’, rather than to listen to their bodies and take the sensible, and often tough, decision to descend and allow the body to adjust at a slower pace in the short term, was far more sustainable in the long term.
After 4 or 5 days of rest at Base Camp, our 3rd rotation was our summit attempt.
My personal fear was that I was not acclimatised properly and felt ill prepared for the summit, however as a group we were all going together so it was very much ‘now or never’!
Interestingly, at Camps 1-3 I felt great and slept really well, not everyone in the group had the same experience, but I tried to concentrate on my own efficiency and managing myself on the mountain.
Some of our group started climbing while using oxygen from Camp 3, however I felt good, so decided to start without, feeling as strong as I had since we started the trip.
Pushing towards 7400m we were doing great. Then, as we were half way up the final icewall, I glanced up to study the terrain and was abruptly smacked in the face by a chunk of snow falling down the mountain.
Spitting blood and slightly shaken, Dawa and I decided that now was the time to start the oxygen, which was especially challenging given the location and need to set up the equipment. Dawa’s experience shone through as he took control and got the system working.
Pausing repeatedly so that I could wash out my mouth, which had some minor internal bleeding from the snowfall, we made steady progress to reach Camp 4, from where the plan was to start our Summit push at midnight.
Hydrating, eating, organising equipment, and getting some sleep were essential, and for the first time I slept on Oxygen which was awkward, and I seemed to have developed an unpleasant cough, possibly hampered by the earlier incident.
Ever attentive, Dawa, upon hearing my spluttering and coughing, came over and adjusted the flow rate on the oxygen cylinder and decided to sleep in our tent before our departure a few hours later. Waking at around 11pm, we began getting ready and taking on board essential liquid to hydrate for the ascent ahead. Everything is a lot slower at altitude, and again the ‘buddy buddy’ system came into its own as I needed help with normally simple tasks, such as tightening crampons and adjusting kit.
Leaving Camp 4 at midnight, a steady climb followed, including some noticeably tricky sections, before summiting at 07:13.
Standing amid freezing winds, finally being on the peak for 15 minutes was a simply amazing!! Over whelming in so many ways.
All too soon we were descending again, where for the first time I felt my oxygen quite claustraphobic, which led me to keep removing the mask. This constant ‘off / on’ of oxygen without a doubt confused my body, and arriving at Camp 4 I felt quite exhausted and dehydrated.
Exhausted, I have no idea how long we spent at camp 4, but a large number of the group were planning on descending to Base Camp in the same day, which for me was too demanding, so I opted to descend to camp 3 with Dawa where we could refuel and sleep before allowing for a slightly slower return to BC, just in time for the summit party amid new friends and climbing colleagues who all stared in this life changing journey.
Collectively we were taken to the next level, mentally, physically and spiritually, and were each left humbled by the experience, but all with a burning passion to see where this challenge could take us.
Tanya Perret, April 2022
On the Path to the Roof of The World.
Lessons learned from my first 8000 meter peak.
Ever since I became enamoured with the mountains, one of my aspirations was a burning desire to climb a ‘big mountain’, of the type that I had read about endlessly, and seen in numerous documentaries.
When I was in my 20s, back in the 1990’s, such a trip would have only been possible if I was an aspiring talented Alpinist and ‘invited’ onto a sponsored expedition.
Venturing into my 30s my role became to raise another human, my son Emilie, which I did by embracing and sharing my sprit of adventure and living in the UK, New Zealand, and Nepal, before settling in the Haute Savoie, France.
My early 40s afforded time to breathe, think, reflect and have a conversation with myself about how the next chapter of my life should take shape. Emile was going to start secondary school and becoming more independent every day, our chalet was renovated and my business was COVID stable…it was finally time to revisit the big mountain passion that still burned deep within me.
With a strong baseline of mountaineering experience, and having worked as a trekking guide for most of my working life, including having two ascents of Mont Blanc and a number of guided 4000m peaks (Matterhorn, Dent du Geant, Monte Viso) to my name, it felt like all of these experiences were building towards the mountain experience that I had been waiting almost 25 years to undertake.
But which peak would I tackle on my ultimate mountain adventure?
After some considerable thought, I sought out a commercial expedition, offering an ascent of Manaslu (8163m) in Western Nepal during September / October 2021, with the renowned ‘8K Expeditions’ and the talented Lakpa Sherpa. Having seen Lakpa operate for a number of years on Everest, K2, Lhotse, Manaslu and multiple other mountains I knew I would be in the best possible hands.
Why Manaslu?
Being the 8th highest mountain in the world and an ‘eight-thousander’ (where peaks above 8000 m being a noted milestone in the mountaineering world) I knew that Manaslu would be no small challenge, but for me it was more about the personal challenge in my fourth decade, of finally embarking on an adventure 20 years in the planning. Manaslu is a good choice for your first 8000m peak due to the technical terrain and accessibility in the Eastern Annapurna’s
It’s All in the Planning….Equipment.
Having led and participated in many, many expeditions, I knew that preparation and the right equipment would be essential for such an undertaking, especially an environment where the right equipment and knowing how to use it, has meant the difference between life and death for so many in the past.
Boots, down suits, gloves, and other essential equipment were all available for hire in Kathmandu, however my tiny feet (size 37.5, US 7, UK 5) with a high arch, would prove a challenge when hiring, so rather than leave things to chance I sought out and purchased my own, beginning with testing and selecting ‘Boreal’ Expedition 8k boots.
Not wanting to risk hiring equipment that wasn’t right for me, ‘Rab’ Down Trousers and ‘Black Diamond’ alpine gloves were selected to go with my existing, tried and tested equipment.
I chose ‘Seal Skin’ branded gloves for my base layer gloves, while ‘Patagonia’ and ‘Decathlon’ branded underwear rounded out my clothing items.
With the kit list growing, and with the knowledge that much of this can be hired in Kathmandu (which is important to keep in mind as the costs can escalate, so for the more cost aware traveller, it is always worth investing in personal equipment such as properly fitted and tested clothing Vs generalist ‘gear’ such as crampons or ice axes), I already had some essential kit to choose from, as I added crampons, goggles and glacier sunglasses, and my trusted ‘Black Diamond couloir’ climbing harness. I also made a point to equip my existing head torch with lithium batteries, which were essential for operating in low temperatures.
I knew I needed to purchase a sleeping bag, which proved one of the more challenging decisions on my kit list, as bulkier and heavier bags also tend to be the warmest, so there always tends to be a decision between warmth, bulk and weight when selecting a new bag.
Knowing that I would be climbing amid some of the world’s most inhospitable terrain, this was not a time to compromise, so a ‘Mountain Equipment’ down bag was chosen, while Korean brand ‘Black Yak’ offered a fantastic, and cost effective sleeping mat solution for only $30, which I purchased locally in Kathmandu.
Learning from the hard learned experiences of others is essential in the mountaineering world, and on a previous expedition I observed that Spanish Alpinist Jorge Egocheaga always carried a ‘Jet-Boil’ camping cooker in his rucksack ( I did the same ), and had a ‘expedition blue drum’ ( many Sherpa’s use this as a kit store) filled with snack bars and dehydrated food. The point being he could totally function independently on the mountain.
Other key items that people gave me were to carry adhesive foot / hand warmers, advice greatly received as the foot warmers especially saved my toes from frostbite. They are very easy to use and by sticking them to the outside of your socks the warmth they provide can last for a digit saving 5 to 6 hours.
Preparation.
8K Expeditions gave us the opportunity to participate in a training session prior to the expedition beginning in earnest, where some of the Sherpa guides set up a couple of fixed lines and a traverse on the section of glacier, close to our camp.
Embracing the opportunity proved invaluable, as it afforded the opportunity to fine tune techniques before going higher on the mountain, especially as between Camps 1 & 2 we had to navigate an icefall and numerous crevasses which required a couple of short ladders to cross.
The crevasse ladders proved precarious and occasionally hair raising experiences, especially with smaller feet like mine, where I needed to balance on each rung, as opposed to my crampons reaching between the rungs and forming two points of contact.
Calling Home.
Mountain Satellite Phones proved an essential link to home, and with no signal at BC, and WIFI proving slow and pricey, I used my Thuraya Satellite Phone £50 to send text messages, at the cost of approx 35p, and I decided to connect regularly with my son, friends and family. Jose, who I shared a tent with, was using a ‘Garmin In-Reach’ GPS/ satellite communicator, which is something I would like to look into for future trips as messaging definitely felt like the most effective means of communication, where options were limited.
Functioning in the mountains – the essentials, and facts of life.
When working at the extremes, even the most basic functions take on a whole new perspective, especially for any females pondering such an undertaking. But, function we must – so in the spirit of sharing my experiences so that readers don’t have to go through the same lessons, I make no apologies for some of the subject matter which follows….
Toileting and tending the female menstrual cycle need some consideration when operating in any extreme environment, none more so than in alpine and ‘above the snowline’ mountainous environments.
At basecamp dedicated toilet tents exist with separate ‘No 1’ and ‘No 2’ tents, especially due to waste removal responsibilities. On higher camps an area close to the tents is dug out with a small snow wall a foot high, and depending on the exact location and technical terrain, you don’t want to travel too far from your tent which means that discretion isn’t always possibly, but then everyone is in the same boat and respectful of the limited privacy that is available.
Ultimately Peeing in your tent or doorway whilst sharing with other expedition members, both male or female, is totally ok and often necessary.
As you climb higher extreme cold becomes a serious factor, in particular exposing bare flesh to the elements. Toileting in your tent is the norm. Men use bottles, while women use special ‘Shewee’ bottles, which you may find a little awkward to use effectively and if you pee with a reasonable flow rate then chances are you may fill the bottle and create a spillage. If this spillage a consideration, a cheap ‘funnel’ can be a life saver.
Hydration and avoiding urinary infections is essential in extreme environments, such as the mountains….lets face it, no-one wants cystitis at 7000m!
Feminine practicalities demanded that I opted for a two piece down suit for this trip, which bring us to managing periods and dealing with the menstrual flow.
We all know that menstrual fatigue, (for me on the day prior to my period is exhausting) can take its toll, and dealing with a heavy flow can prove complicated at altitude (with the altitude itself having unique effects on each individual’s physiology, including periods). A solution can be found in a coil (for example the Mirena or the newer Kyleena) which can reduce your period to barely anything.
Extreme Relationships – maintaining morale and friendships amid the mountains.
The time you spend with your climbing Sherpa can be regarded as ‘intense’ and it’s important that you work well together and have clear means of communication to ensure safety.
My own climbing Sherpa, Dawa was exceptional, being very calm, a good decision maker and highly experienced, and is on track to complete the 14 x 8000m peaks with just the mighty K2 to go. Many climbers return to work with the same Sherpa on future expeditions, proving that mutual trust and respect are key to success, and survival amongst the mountains.
Spirituality – This is very important for me and there were a series of things that I needed to undertake in order to feel prepared for the expedition. For a long time now I have studied astrology, so I requested a reading from respected NZ Astrologer, Graham Ibell.
Equally, visiting a Lhama once in Kathmandu and showing respect at the various monasteries on route all add a feeling of protection and calmness.
Rotations and Assault on the Summit.
I genuinely did not know if I could climb this mountain, so I concluded to break the expedition into stages, and consider each stage, one at a time.
For our ascent, we would be climbing the mountain as one group, pooling resources and support in a group effort. In theory this worked well, but in practice we found that, with some members being acclimatised prior to departure and others using various altitude drugs to assist acclimatisation, it emerged that we did not all climb at the same speed.
Climbing in this environment involves working in rotations to support acclimatisation and route preparation by ascending and descending between camps so that our bodies adapted to each new increase in altitude and, depending on how we felt, could either remain or descend, before seeking to move to the next, higher camp.
Listening to, and understanding the effects of operating at altitude was essential, as many ill fated climbers have attempted to ‘tough it out’, rather than to listen to their bodies and take the sensible, and often tough, decision to descend and allow the body to adjust at a slower pace in the short term, was far more sustainable in the long term.
After 4 or 5 days of rest at Base Camp, our 3rd rotation was our summit attempt.
My personal fear was that I was not acclimatised properly and felt ill prepared for the summit, however as a group we were all going together so it was very much ‘now or never’!
Interestingly, at Camps 1-3 I felt great and slept really well, not everyone in the group had the same experience, but I tried to concentrate on my own efficiency and managing myself on the mountain.
Some of our group started climbing while using oxygen from Camp 3, however I felt good, so decided to start without, feeling as strong as I had since we started the trip.
Pushing towards 7400m we were doing great. Then, as we were half way up the final icewall, I glanced up to study the terrain and was abruptly smacked in the face by a chunk of snow falling down the mountain.
Spitting blood and slightly shaken, Dawa and I decided that now was the time to start the oxygen, which was especially challenging given the location and need to set up the equipment. Dawa’s experience shone through as he took control and got the system working.
Pausing repeatedly so that I could wash out my mouth, which had some minor internal bleeding from the snowfall, we made steady progress to reach Camp 4, from where the plan was to start our Summit push at midnight.
Hydrating, eating, organising equipment, and getting some sleep were essential, and for the first time I slept on Oxygen which was awkward, and I seemed to have developed an unpleasant cough, possibly hampered by the earlier incident.
Ever attentive, Dawa, upon hearing my spluttering and coughing, came over and adjusted the flow rate on the oxygen cylinder and decided to sleep in our tent before our departure a few hours later. Waking at around 11pm, we began getting ready and taking on board essential liquid to hydrate for the ascent ahead. Everything is a lot slower at altitude, and again the ‘buddy buddy’ system came into its own as I needed help with normally simple tasks, such as tightening crampons and adjusting kit.
Leaving Camp 4 at midnight, a steady climb followed, including some noticeably tricky sections, before summiting at 07:13.
Standing amid freezing winds, finally being on the peak for 15 minutes was a simply amazing!! Over whelming in so many ways.
All too soon we were descending again, where for the first time I felt my oxygen quite claustraphobic, which led me to keep removing the mask. This constant ‘off / on’ of oxygen without a doubt confused my body, and arriving at Camp 4 I felt quite exhausted and dehydrated.
Exhausted, I have no idea how long we spent at camp 4, but a large number of the group were planning on descending to Base Camp in the same day, which for me was too demanding, so I opted to descend to camp 3 with Dawa where we could refuel and sleep before allowing for a slightly slower return to BC, just in time for the summit party amid new friends and climbing colleagues who all stared in this life changing journey.
Collectively we were taken to the next level, mentally, physically and spiritually, and were each left humbled by the experience, but all with a burning passion to see where this challenge could take us.
Tanya Perret, April 2022
